Alternative Metals for Jewelry

Throughout history, gold, silver, and platinum glow as hallmarks of fine jewelry metals. Still, alternative metals such as copper, bronze, pewter, steel, and even brass occupy a secure niche in crafting fine jewelry. Although some alloys, such as bronze and pewter, fell out of favor when the toxic properties of alloying agents like lead and arsenic were discovered, new blends and metalsmithing technologies have brought these “base” metals back into the arena of jewelry craftsmanship.

Moreover, a resurgence in the popularity of body jewelry and affordable fashion jewelry, allows contemporary metalsmiths the freedom to break with traditions, re-explore the alternative metals of the past, adding new metal technologies and innovative techniques to jewelry design.

Copper

The history of copper goes back beyond 10,000 years. A copper pendant, found in northern Iraq dates back to 8700 B.C.E. and predates the first gold artifacts by 4700 years. Because of its beautiful luster, copper was associated with the Goddess Venus (Aphrodite). In fact, in ancient alchemy both the planet Venus and copper shared the same symbol.

Folklore maintains that copper is both a preventative and cure for arthritis. Although the United States FTC (Federal Trade Commission) refutes its medicinal properties, thousands of consumers continue to respond to the allure of copper jewelry. Innovative copper designs bring special emphasize to the beauty of precious gems like pearls, as well as creating unique, stand-alone bracelets, necklaces and other pieces.

Bronze

Bronze was an early copper alloy; so early, in fact, that an entire era — the Bronze Age — was named for it. An alloy of copper and tin, bronze is found as far back in history as Ancient Egypt and was used for making bracelets, ankles, and earrings, and beaded necklaces. Although contemporary bronze is sometimes alloyed with aluminum, because of its weight and the complexity in casting bronze, modern jewelers typically use it to fashion smaller items like brooches and pins.

Brass

Combine copper with zinc and you see the golden luster of brass. Brass is a malleable, high-luster, metal that is far less expensive than gold. Once mostly seen in bed frames, doorknobs, and as elegant finishes for picture frames, brass charms and stampings for bracelets, necklaces, rings, and body jewelry have escalated in popularity as a mainstay in modern fashion jewelry.

Alpaca (Alpacca)

Not to be confused with the animal, alpaca is a relatively new metal, predominantly made of copper alloyed with nickel, zinc, and tin. The reduced expense of alpaca makes it a natural substitute for silver in fashion jewelry.

Pewter

As copper alloyed with tin became bronze, tin alloyed with copper and lead resulted in pewter. At one time, pewter was the main material used in tableware as well as being a base metal often used for rings and pendants. Non-toxic antimony and/or bismuth replaces lead as a component in modern pewter jewelry.

Polished pewter shines with a brightness that approaches the elegant sheen of fine silver. When antique patinas are preferred, pewter is darkened with chemical additives.

Titanium

When nickel allergies prevent you from purchasing silver jewelry, try jewelry fashioned form titanium. Because of its strength and 100% compatibility with the human body, titanium is often used in surgical procedures. Tarnish-free, titanium can be finished to shine with the subtle glow of platinum or the brilliance of silver.

Surgical Steel

Surgical stainless steel is an alloy of steel, chromium, molybdenum, and sometimes nickel. Scratch and corrosion resistant, the chromium provides this alternative metal with its beautiful luster. Surgical steel is a popular metal used in body jewelry.

PMC (Precious Metal Clay)

Although not a true metal, PMC is rapidly gaining popularity with jewelry designers. Developed by Mitsubishi Materials Corp. of Japan, PMC is made by adding finely ground silver or gold to clay, shaping it and firing it in a kiln. Although not as strong as pure gold or silver, and two to three times more expensive, the advantages of PMC are that it is lighter than silver, can be rolled, coiled, pinched, or pressed in the same manner as clay, and retains surface patterns after firing to allow designers to create an infinite variety of textures.