Diamonds • Precious Gemstones • Jewelry • Gemology

Traditionally, the benchmark for the facet cut is 58 flat symmetrical cuts on a round stone. However, in a break with tradition, lapidary expert Richard Homer refined a new way to cut facets, further maximizing the brilliance of precious gems. Homer is credited as pioneering and perfecting the technique of the concave facet gem cut.

While working towards a Geology Degree, Homer began cutting gems in 1974 to help pay his tuition at Kent State. Since then, his designs have won 15 American Gem Trade Association Cutting Edge Awards.

It was Doug Hoffman, who actually invented the concave facet technology and patented his machine in the early 1990’s and then allowed his friend, Richard Homer full reign to employ his expertise and artistry in an innovation that literally rocked the lapidary industry. Today the concave faceted gem cut has been called “the single greatest improvement in gem cutting since learning how to polish hard stones.”

Master cutter Richard Homer says, "One of the advantages of concave cutting is that it distributes light much more evenly through the length and breadth of the stone, giving the whole gem an interior glow that is very homogenous."

Unlike the two-dimensional flat facet cuts, the concave cut is three-dimensional. In addition to length and width, this curved cut results in a conical shaped facet, creating depth as well. This third dimension allows the gem to further refract more of the ambient light and return it to the eye as brilliance. A flat-faceted gem cut usually needs bright light to display brilliance. However, the concave facet reflects the smallest light source and returns brilliance even in the dim light of a single candle.

Like all objéts d’art, the beauty of a cut gemstone is in the eye of the beholder. There will always be those who prefer the traditional flat facet cut over the innovative concave facet cut. Moreover, not all gems benefit from concave faceting. Optimizing color and light is always the first consideration in cutting gemstones and although diamonds and lighter toned stones increase up to 100% in brilliance when concave cut, darker stones, like rubies, may look even murkier and less attractive when cut with this new technique.

Another disadvantage of the concave facet cut is the higher weight loss as more of the gem is cut away than in if flat faceted. Concave cutting also requires more labor as well as appreciably more expertise than does flat faceting, two elements that combine to make concave cut gemstones significantly more expensive than traditionally cut stones.

All in all, while the craters of concave facet cut gemstones will most definitely continue to sparkle with their unique brilliance throughout the future, traditionally cut flat-faceted gemstones will continue shedding their own rays of brightness over their surroundings.

Many thanks to Chris for these photos. For more info and more photos visit Chris and Anne's site at .. ConcaveFaceting.com.