Rings typically come to mind when settings are mentioned. While the
prong setting is most frequently used to set gems into rings, jewelers
use numerous other methods to set stones into precious metals. In fact,
any holder for a gemstone is a setting (mounting).
Precious stones
can be mounted into a setting that hangs from a chain to create a pendant,
or as a chain to create a necklace. They can be set into a single mounting
to create a post earring or alternatively in dangling earrings the
gem and its mounting dangle from the earring base. In addition, gemstones
can be set into bracelets, brooches, and body jewelry.
In fact, every piece of jewelry that contains a gemstone has a setting
and the importance of choosing the proper setting for a stone is crucial
in fine jewelry design. Along with securely holding the stone in place,
the setting is the primary factor in displaying a gemstone’s
cut, clarity, and color(s).
Prong Setting
Prong settings gain much of their popularity as the easiest methods
of setting a gemstone as well as one of the least expensive. Yet, an
additional benefit is that the prong setting allows an optimal amount
of light to pass through the stone, displaying the gem at maximum brilliance.
In a prong setting (or “claw” setting) usually four to
six talons of precious metal reach around the girdle (side) of the
gemstone and arch over its crown (top), snuggly holding the stone in
place. Although the visible part of the prongs may be shaped into decorative
shapes, more often they’re rounded to avoid catching on other
objects and causing damage to either the objects or the prongs.
Bezel Setting
The bezel setting is precisely crafted to embrace a gemstone and hold
it securely in place. The bezel is one of the oldest techniques used
in gem setting and remains an excellent method to protect both the
girdle (middle) and the pavilion (bottom) of a gemstone from chips
and scratches.
Old-fashioned bezels generally surround the entire circumference of
a stone, but contemporary bezel settings may be split into a variation
called the “half bezel”, which only partly encircles the
stone. The bezel setting may be straight-edged or shaped to accommodate
the cut of the stone and overall design of the jewelry.
Bezel settings are the setting of choice for fragile gemstones such as opal.
Flush Settings
A variant of the bezel setting is the flush (or gypsy) setting. In
this variation a window is cut into the base, the gem set into it and
secured underneath. The crown (top) of the stone reaches over the base,
coyly flirting with the light.
Channel Setting
The tennis bracelet is a prime example of the channel setting. In the
channel setting, two long bands of precious metal hold multiple gemstones
in place, giving them the appearance of floating in the setting since
no metal can be seen between the stones.
Bar Setting
The bar channel, a variation of the channel setting looks as if a number
of stones float in adjacent berths with each stone docked in its own
private channel and set apart from its neighbors by two thin metal
bars.
Pavé Setting
The pavé setting has the look of precious gems “paved” across
a piece of jewelry. When paired in a pavé setting, diamonds
and white gold shimmer and sparkle as light touches each of the small “cobblestones” that make up the pavement.
Tension Setting
This setting uses pressure to hold a stone between two open ends of
a metal mounting, making the stone appear as if it’s floating.
Platinum is often the metal of choice when creating tension settings
for fine gemstones.
