Precious stones can be mounted into a setting that hangs from a chain to create a pendant, or as a chain to create a necklace. They can be set into a single mounting to create a post earring or alternatively in dangling earrings the gem and its mounting dangle from the earring base. In addition, gemstones can be set into bracelets, brooches, and body jewelry.
In fact, every piece of jewelry that contains a gemstone has a setting and the importance of choosing the proper setting for a stone is crucial in fine jewelry design. Along with securely holding the stone in place, the setting is the primary factor in displaying a gemstone’s cut, clarity, and color(s).
Prong Setting
Prong settings gain much of their popularity as the easiest methods of setting a gemstone as well as one of the least expensive. Yet, an additional benefit is that the prong setting allows an optimal amount of light to pass through the stone, displaying the gem at maximum brilliance.In a prong setting (or “claw” setting) usually four to six talons of precious metal reach around the girdle (side) of the gemstone and arch over its crown (top), snuggly holding the stone in place. Although the visible part of the prongs may be shaped into decorative shapes, more often they’re rounded to avoid catching on other objects and causing damage to either the objects or the prongs.
Bezel Setting
The bezel setting is precisely crafted to embrace a gemstone and hold it securely in place. The bezel is one of the oldest techniques used in gem setting and remains an excellent method to protect both the girdle (middle) and the pavilion (bottom) of a gemstone from chips and scratches.Old-fashioned bezels generally surround the entire circumference of a stone, but contemporary bezel settings may be split into a variation called the “half bezel”, which only partly encircles the stone. The bezel setting may be straight-edged or shaped to accommodate the cut of the stone and overall design of the jewelry.
Bezel settings are the setting of choice for fragile gemstones such as opal.