The following codes and definitions are adapted from the American Gem Trade Association's Gemstone Enhancement Manual, Edition 6.1 June, 1997, which is the industry standard for disclosure to consumers.
General Enhancement Categories:
1) N: Those natural stones which are not currently known to be enhanced by any methods, such as spinel, and therefore can safely be presumed untreated. The symbol "N" is used for these and may also be used in the case of other stones which are sometimes or often treated, which in the particular case are unenhanced. To use this symbol on sapphire, for example, which is generally heated means that the seller certifies that the particular stone was not heated and supplies a document such as an invoice or lab report so stating.
2) E: Those natural stones which are routinely enhanced by traditional methods, the particular stone given this designation, may or may not be enhanced. For example, since most emeralds are oiled an E would indicate such treatment, but would not cover non-traditional methods such as hardened plastic resins (like Opticon) which would require specific enhancement codes such as those listed below. Another example would be the use of E for aquamarine, which in most cases is heated prior to the sale of the rough to remove greenish tints. If the seller knows what specific treatment has been used, then a more specific code should be used.
3) Those gemstones for which definite information on standard treatments is known, or to which N and E codes do not apply, as they have been treated in non-traditional ways which must be specifically disclosed by the appropriate code and also in writing. For example, a ruby which has had fractures or cavities filled with glass would receive an I (infilling) code as described below. A Morganite, which is known to have been heated, would receive an H rather than the less specific, E.
Specific Enhancement Codes:
B: Bleaching - Use of chemicals to lighten or remove a gem's color
C: Coating - Use of surface treatments such as films, lacquers, etc. to provide color or other special effects
D: Dyeing - The introduction of coloring matter into a gem to give it a new color or greater intensity
F: Filling - Incorporation of colorless borax or other substances into cracks as a by-product of heating the stone, used only if such material is visible at 10x.
G: Gamma/Electron Radiation - The use of gamma or electron irradiation for the purpose of changing a gem's color, may be followed by a heating process to stabilize the color. Such stones do not exhibit residual radioactivity.
H: Heating - The use of heat to clarify, change color or create phenomena in gems. Any filler materials, which enter the gem, as a result must not be visible in fractures at 10x.
I: Infilling - The intentional filling of surface breaking cracks and cavities with a foreign material such as synthetic resins with hardeners (Opticon), glass or plastic.
L: Lasering - The use of a laser to drill into a stone and remove or alter an inclusion, refers specifically to diamonds
O: Oiling or Resin Infusion - The intentional filling of surface breaking cavities and cracks in transparent or translucent gems with a colorless oil, wax, resin or man-made unhardened resin.
R: Irradiation - The use of neutron bombardment to alter color. This process creates residual radioactivity and such stones must receive a Nuclear Regulatory Commission safety release prior to sale. Usually used in combination with other radiation and or heating treatments.
S: Bonding - The intentional use of a colorless bonding agent (usually plastic) within a porous gemstone.
D: Diffusion - The use of specific chemicals during a high temperature heating process for the purpose of penetrating the surface layer (usually to a slight depth only) with coloring or star-making chemicals. Such treatment is not generally accepted and stones sold with this enhancement must be specifically labeled as diffused.
W: Waxing/Oiling - The impregnation of colorless wax,
oil or paraffin into porous opaque gems to improve appearance.
ENHANCEMENT: Any traditional
process other than cutting and polishing that improves the appearance
(color/ clarity/phenomena), durability or availability of a gemstone.
A gemstone enhancement is
considered permanent as long as it does not change in appearance (color
and/or clarity) under normal wear, cutting repair, cleaning or display
conditions.
| N - Those which
are not enhanced. |
| The "N" symbol appears on the chart only for natural
stones which are not currently known to be enhanced
(Alexandrite, Garnet, etc.), however, the "N" symbol
can also be used for other natural gemstones in the
event that a gemstone has received no enhancement.
That gemstone must be accompanied by a commercial
document, such as, an invoice, memorandum and/or a
laboratory report to support the fact that the gemstone
is not enhanced. |
| E - Those which
are not normally enhanced. |
| The "E" symbol indicates that the gemstone has undergone
its traditional enhancement process. The type of enhancement
process covered by this symbol is indicated on the
following chart. For example: The "E" designation
for Aquamarine means only the enhancement that is
describes in the chart, i.e. thermal enhancement.
In the case of Emerald, the "E" designation refers
to the penetration of colorless oil, wax and
resins into fissures to improve appearance as the
traditional part of the Emerald enhancement process.
Since many enhancements are difficult or impractical
to prove definitively, unless otherwise indicated,
to assume that such traditional enhancement has
been done to that particular gemstone. |
SYMBOLS FOR SPECIFIC
FORMS OF ENHANCEMENTS:
|
| B |
Bleaching: The use of heat, light and/or other agents
to lighten or remove a gemstone's color. |
| C |
Coating: The use of such surface enhancements as
lacquering, enameling, inking, foiling or sputtering
of films to improve appearance, provide color or add
other special effects. |
| D |
Dyeing: The introduction of coloring matter into
a gemstone to give it new color, intensify present
color or improve color uniformity. |
| F |
Filling: The filling of surface breaking cavities
or fissures with colorless glass, plastic,
solidified borax or similar substances, which are
visible under properly illuminated 10X magnification.
This process will improve durability, appearance and/or
add weight. |
| H |
Heating: The use of heat to affect desired alteration
of color, and/or phenomena. (Residue of foreign substances
in open fissures is not visible under properly
illuminated 10X magnification.) |
| HP |
Heating and Pressure: The use of heat and pressure
combines to affect desired alterations of color and/or
clarity. |
| I |
Impregnation: The impregnation of a porous gemstone
with a colorless agent (usually plastic) to
give it durability and improve appearance. |
| L |
Lasering: The use of laser and chemicals to reach
and alter inclusions in diamonds. |
| O |
Oiling/Resin Infusion: The filling of surface breaking
fissures with colorless oil, wax, resin or
other colorless substances, except glass or
plastic, to improve the gemstone's appearance. |
| R |
Irradiation: The use of neutrons requiring an environmental
safety release from the Nuclear Regulatory Commission
(NRC), Gamma and/or electron bombardment to alter
a gemstone's color. The irradiation may be followed
by a heating process. |
| U |
Diffusion: The use of chemicals in conjunction with
high temperatures to produce color and/or asterism
producing inclusions. |
| W |
Waxing/Oiling: The impregnation of a colorless wax,
paraffin and oil in porous opaque or translucent gemstones
to improve appearance. |
| SYN - SYNTHETIC
STONES |
| The SYN tag code may be used to describe "synthetic"
materials that have essentially the same optical,
physical and chemical properties as a naturally occurring
counterpart. The code name may not be used as a noun;
thus a stone must not be referred to as a "synthetic."
In all cases, the name of the stone must also be used;
thus, a stone must be referred to as "synthetic emerald,"
synthetic ruby, etc. Synthetic stones are as stable
in color and composition as their natural counterpart. |
| IMIT - IMITATION
PRODUCTS-SIMULANTS (SUBSTITUTES) |
| "IMIT" is the tag code used for a manufactured product
fabricated in such materials as glass, ceramic or
plastic designated to imitate or resemble the appearance,
but not duplicate the characteristic properties of
a natural gemstone. These materials require special
care; avoid household chemicals, cosmetics, abrasives
and sudden shocks.
"IMIT" is also the tag code for a simulant, which
is defined as a man-made single crystal product
that is used to simulate the appearance, but not
duplicate the properties of the natural gemstone
it imitates.
Example are: synthetic Spinel; synthetic Sapphire,
synthetic Quartz and synthetic Cubic Zirconia produced
in various colors to imitate gemstones of different
species. This designation also includes GGG, strontium
titanate and YAG.
This category also includes non-single crystal materials
such as imitation Lapis Lazuli and imitation Coral. |
| ASBL - ASSEMBLED
MATERIALS (COMPOSITE) |
"ASBL" is the tag code for products made of multiple
layers or combinations of manufactured and/or natural
materials fused, bonded or otherwise joined together
to increase stability and/or to imitate the appearance
of a natural gemstone, create a unique design or generate
color combinations. Examples:
- Opals-(various Combinations) Doublets and Triplets
- Garnet-Glass Doublets
- Sapphire-Synthetic Sapphire Doublets
- Colorless Beryl-joined by green bonding (Triplets)
- Mabe "Pearls color coated, dyed, bleached, filled
with hardened substances and a Mother of Pearl back.
Sometimes coating can be plastic or polymer to protect
the thin nacre.
- Bonded material such as Turquoise, Lapis, etc.
The "ASBL" coded stones require extra special care;
avoid household chemicals, cosmetics, abrasives
and sudden shocks.
|
| GEMSTONE |
TAG CODE |
ENHANCEMENT METHOD |
FREQUENCY USED |
STABILITY |
CARE REQUIRED |
SPECIAL ADVICE |
| Alexandrite |
N |
None |
----- |
---- |
Normal |
|
| Amazonite |
E or W
I |
Impregnated with a colorless
wax, paraffin or oil to improve appearance Impregnated with plastic and other hardness resins to improve appearance |
Usually
Usually |
Good to
fair
Very good |
Special
Special |
Avoid heat, chemical and
ultrasonic
Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic |
| Amber |
E or H
D |
Heated to improve appearance,
add "sun spangles" or deepen color Dyed of surface treated to add color |
Usually
Rarely |
Very good to Good Variable |
Special
Special |
Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic Avoid repolishing surface, chemicals and ultrasonic |
| Amethyst |
E or H |
Heated to lighten color and/or
to remove "Smokey" components |
Occasionally |
Excellent |
Special |
Some unheated material may fade
in long exposure to sunlight |
| Ametrine |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
| Ammolite |
I |
Impregnated with colorless
hardened substances to increase stability |
Usually |
Good to fair |
Special |
Avoid heat, household chemicals
and ultrasonic |
| Andalusite |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
| Aquamarine |
E or H |
Heated to remove yellow
components thereby producing a purer blue color |
Usually |
Excellent |
Normal |
Top |
Beryl
Blue
Pink
Yellow-Green Red
Yellow |
R
E or H
N E or O
R |
Irradiated blue from pale pink or colorless
Heated to remove yellow component thereby producing a pure pink color
None The penetration of colorless oil and resins into fissures to improve
appearance Produced by irradiation |
Always
Commonly
----------- Commonly
Usually |
Poor
Excellent
---------- Very good to fair
Variable |
Extra Special
Normal
Normal Special
Normal /
Special depending on method |
Color fades, avoid light and
heat
Avoid high temperatures steam cleaning, chemicals and ultrasonic
Certain stones may fade in light or heat depending on method |
Chalcedony
Agate
Black (Onyx)
Banded Blue
Green
Carnelian
Jasper
Chrysoprase |
D
D
D D
D
E or H D
D
N |
Dyed
Dyed
Dyed Dyed
Dyed
Heated to produce color Dyed to produce color
Sometimes dyed to imitate other stones None |
Usually
Always
Usually Commonly
Usually
Usually Occasionally
Occasionally
---- |
Excellent to Good Excellent to Good Excellent Good to fair
Good to fair
Excellent Excellent to Good Excellent
----- |
Normal
Normal
Normal Special
Special
Normal Special
Normal
Normal |
Certain stones may fade in light or heat Certain stones may fade in light or heat
Certain stones may fade in light or heat
|
Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye
Transparent Varieties: Yellow Brown Green |
R
N N N |
Irradiated to change color
None None None |
Occasionally
----- ----- ----- |
Excellent
----- ----- ----- |
Normal
Normal Normal Normal |
For safety requirements, if neutron irradiated, refer to code letter "R" in
gemstone information |
| Citrine |
E or H |
Produced by heating various types of quartz |
Usually |
Excellent |
Normal |
|
Coral
Black
White
Pink
Orange
"Gold"
Red |
N
E or B
E or W
I
B
D |
None
Bleached
Impregnated with colorless wax
Stabilized with plastic to improve color and durability Bleached from black coral
Dyed |
-----
Commonly
Commonly
Commonly
Usually
Occasionally |
-----
Good
Good
Good
Very Good
Variable |
Special
Special
Special
Special
Special
Special to extra special depending on type of dye |
Avoid chemicals, cosmetics and ultrasonic Avoid chemicals, cosmetics and ultrasonic: material may discolor in time Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic Same as above
Avoid chemicals and ultrasonic Certain materials may fade in light or heat. Avoid chemicals, cosmetics and
ultrasonic
|
Diamond
Colorless to faint Yellow
Colored |
L
C
F
HP
L
F
R
C
H |
Laser drilled to improve appearance Coated to disguise off-color
Filling of surface cavities or fractures with a hardened substance Use of heat with pressure to alter color and/or clarity Laser drilled to improve appearance Filling of surface cavities or fractures with a hardened substance Irradiated and/or heated to induce "fancy" colors
Coated to "fancy" colors
Use of heat to alter color |
Occasionally to common Rarely
Occasionally
Rarely
Occasionally
Rarely
Occasionally
Rarely
Rarely |
Very Good
Very good to poor depending on method
Very Good
Unknown
Very good
Very good
Excellent to very good
Fair to poor
Unknown |
Normal
Variable
Special
Normal
Normal
Special
Normal except green
Special
Normal |
Recutting, steam cleaning, ultrasonic and occasionally
alcohol may adversely affect color and appearance Recutting or extreme heat may remove filling material
Recutting or extreme heat may remove filling material Avoid heating treated green stones as the color may change. Some green
stones have been radium irradiate, for safety requirements refer to the NRC. Recutting, steaming and ultrasonic may adversely affect color and appearance
|
| Diopside (Chrome) |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Special |
Avoid sudden temperature changes
and harsh chemicals |
| Emerald |
E or O
D |
The penetration of colorless oil, wax and resins into fissures to improve
appearance
Dyed with colored agents |
Usually
Occasionally |
Very good to fair
Variable |
Special
Special |
Avoid sudden
temperature changes, steaming, chemicals and ultrasonic Same as above |
Garnet
Almandite
Demantoid Grossularite Pyrope Rhodolite Spessarite Tsavorite |
N
N N N N N N |
None
None None None None None None |
----
---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- |
----
---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- |
Normal
Normal Normal Normal Normal Normal Normal |
Avoid sudden temperature change Same as above Same as above Same as above Same as above Same as above Same as above |
| Hematite |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
| Iolite |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
Ivory & Bone
Mammoth (Ivory) |
E or B
D W
I |
Bleached to whiten and remove discoloration
Dyed for artistic purposes Impregnated with colorless paraffin wax Impregnated with colorless hardened substances to increase stability |
Commonly
Occasionally Occasionally
Commonly |
Good
Good Good
Good |
Special
Special Special
Normal |
Avoid
chemicals and ultrasonic: may discolor in time Same as above Same as above
|
Jade
Jadeite
Green, White and Purple
Nephrite |
E or W
B and W B and S D
D |
Coated with colorless wax
Two-step bleaching and wax impregnation Two-step bleaching and polymer impregnation Dyed to imitate natural colors
Dyed selectively to alter color for artistic purposes in carvings |
Commonly
Rarely
Commonly
Occasionally
Rarely |
Fair
Poor
Very good to good Variable
Unknown |
Normal to Special Special
Special
Special
Special |
Avoid ultrasonic
Avoid heat, chemicals and ultrasonic same as above
Avoid strong light, chemicals and ultrasonic: may discolor in time. Avoid chemicals, ultrasonic and strong light |
| Kunzite |
E or H
R |
Heated to improve color from certain locations
Irradiated and heated to darken color |
Commonly
Commonly |
Fair
Fair |
Special
Special |
Natural
and/or treated materials may fade-avoid strong light, ultrasonic Same as above |
| Lapis Lazuli |
E or W
D |
Coated with colorless wax or oil to improve appearance Dyed to provide color and/or uniformity |
Commonly
Commonly |
Fair
Variable |
Normal to special Special |
Avoid
chemicals and ultrasonic Same as above
|
| Malachite |
W
I |
Coated with colorless wax
Impregnated with plastic and/or other hardened agents to improve durability
and appearance |
Occasionally
Rarely |
Fair
Good |
Special
Special |
Avoid
chemicals and ultrasonic Same as above |
| Moonstone |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
Opal
White, Black & Semi-Black
Matrix
Boulder
Fire Opal Cat's Eye
Hydrophane
|
O
I
D
O
N I
O
D
I |
Impregnated with colorless oil, wax and resins Impregnated with colorless plastic to increase durability & improve
appearance Sugar solution infilling in acid bath to darken background and enhance color
play and intensity Infusion of unhardened essentially colorless substances into voids to
improve appearance None Impregnated with colorless resins to give durability and improve appearance Impregnated with colorless oil, wax and resins to hide crazing Impregnated with hardened agents to improve appearance and increase
durability Impregnated with colorless plastic to improve appearance and increase
durability |
Rarely
Rarely
Commonly
Occasionally
---- Usually
Commonly
Commonly
Commonly |
Fair
Good
Good
Fair
---- Good
Fair
Good
Good |
Special
Special
Special
Special
Special Special
Special
Special
Special |
Avoid ultrasonic, heat and solvents Avoid heat and solvents
Avoid solvents and repolishing
Avoid heat, chemicals, ultrasonic and repolishing Avoid heat Avoid heat, solvents and ultrasonic
Avoid heat, solvents and ultrasonic Avoid heat and solvents Top
Avoid heat and solvents |
Pearl
Natural
Cultured
Mabe 'Pearl' |
E or B
D
E or B
D
D
D R
D
|
Bleached to improve color and appearance Dyed with or without chemical treatment combined with heat to produce gray
to black. Bleached to improve color and uniformity of white color only Dyed to give rose, blue or golden overtones Dyed blue, black and other colors includes use of colored nuclei Dyed all colors (freshwater) Irradiated to produce blue, gray black and bronze colors Chemical treatment combined with heat to produce gray to black See assembled materials |
Usually
Rarely
Usually
Usually
Occasionally
Usually Occasionally
Commonly |
Very good
Very good to good
Excellent
Good
Variable
Very good Very good
Very good to good |
Special
Special
Special
Special
Special
Special Special
Special
Extra Special |
Avoid cosmetics and household chemicals Avoid chemicals, cosmetics and ultrasonic
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above Same as above
Same as above
Avoid household chemicals, cosmetics, abrasives and sudden shocks |
| Peridot |
E or O
F |
Penetration of colorless oil, wax and resins into voids to improve
appearance
Filling of surface fractures with a colorless hardened substance |
Rarely
Rarely |
Good to fair
Good |
Special
Special |
Avoid sudden
temperature changes, harsh chemicals and ultrasonic Same as above Top |
| Rhodonite |
D |
Dyed to "even out color" |
Occasionally |
Poor |
Special |
Avoid
chemicals and ultrasonic |
| Ruby |
E or H
D
F
R
U |
Heated to improve color and appearance (Residue of foreign substance is
not visible under 10X magnification.) Dyed with colored oil to improve appearance Intentional filling of surface cavities and fractures with a foreign
material, including glass which is visible under 10X magnification
Irradiated to change color
Diffusion of color or asterism in corundum at or near the surface |
Usually
Rarely
Commonly
Rarely
Rarely |
Excellent
Poor
Very good to fair
Unknown
Good |
Normal
Special
Special
Normal
Special |
Avoid household chemicals and ultrasonic Fracture filling in Rubies may be fragile and may fall out under extreme
pressure; avoid heat and ultrasonic For safety requirements, if neutron irradiated, refer to code letter "R" Avoid repolishing or recutting |
| Sapphire |
E or H
U
R |
Heated to produce, intensity or lighten color and/or improve color
uniformity and appearance Diffusion of color or asterism at or near the surface,
usually blue Irradiation to provide temporary intense yellow or orange color |
Usually
Occasionally
Occasionally |
Excellent
Good
Very Poor |
Normal
Special
Extra Special |
Avoid repolishing or recutting Fades quickly in light or heat |
| Serpentine |
D E or W |
Dyed various colors Impregnated with colorless wax |
Commonly Commonly |
Good to fair Very good to good |
Special Special |
Dye may fade Avoid ultrasonic Top |
| Sodalite |
D |
Dyed |
Rarely |
Fair |
Special |
Dye may fade |
| Spinel |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
Spodumene Green
Yellow |
R
R |
Irradiated to produce green color
Irradiated to produce yellow color |
Rarely
Rarely |
Poor
Poor |
Extra special
Extra special |
Color fades in light or heat Same as above |
| Sugilite |
N |
None |
---- |
---- |
Normal |
|
| Tanzanite |
E or H |
Heated to produce violet-blue color |
Usually |
Excellent |
Special |
Avoid sudden
temperature changes |
Topaz Blue
Yellow/Orange
Pink/Red
Brown
Green
Green |
R
R
E or H
N
R
U |
Irradiated brown and often heated to produce blue color
Irradiated to intensify color
Heated chromium-bearing pinkish-brown to orange stones Normal
Irradiated to produce a green color
Diffusion of color at or near the surface |
Usually
Occasionally
Usually
----
Occasionally
Usually |
Excellent
Variable
Excellent
----
Poor
Good |
Normal
Special
Normal
Special
Extra special
Special |
For safety requirements, if neutron irradiated, refer to code letter "R" Avoid heat and strong light
May fade in exposure to sunlight Color fades in exposure to sunlight Avoid repolishing or recutting |
Tourmaline Chrome Vanadium Cat's Eye Yellow/Orange
Green, Blue
Pink, Red, Purple |
N N E or H R E or H O
E or H R O
D |
None None Heated to improve color Irradiated to improve color Heated to improve color The penetration of colorless oil or resins into voids to improve appearance Heated to improve color Irradiated to intensify color Penetration of colorless oil or unhardened resins into voids to improve
appearance Penetration of coloring agents into voids to improve appearance |
---- ---- Rarely Rarely Commonly Occasionally
Occasionally Commonly Occasionally
Occasionally |
---- ---- Excellent Very Good Excellent Good to fair
Excellent Good Good to fair
Fair to poor |
Normal Normal Normal Normal Normal Special
Normal Normal Special
Special |
Top
Avoid temperature changes, steaming, chemicals and ultrasonic
Same as above
Same as above |
| Turquoise |
I
W
D |
Impregnated with plastic to create or improve color and increase durability Impregnated with colorless oil or wax to enhance or create color Dyed to improve color |
Commonly
Commonly
Rarely |
Good
Fair to poor
Poor |
Special
Special
Extra special |
Avoid hot
water and household chemicals
Same as above
Same as above |
Zircon Green, Brown Yellow Blue and colorless
Red |
N E or H E or H
E or H |
None Heated to improve color Brownish crystals are heated to these colors Heated to change brownish crystal to red |
---- Rarely Always
Commonly |
---- Good Fair to poor
Fair to poor |
Special Special Special
Special |
Avoid harsh abrasives Same as above Same as above
Same as above
|